Bordeaux: Evalita’s best

Bordeaux is not all about wine. Of course you may do a wine tasting tour from Chateau to Chateau and talk shop about all the St. Emilions, the Sauternes and Pomerols, but I preferred to concentrate on strolling the pedestrian zones of the Old Town with its little cafés, hidden restaurants and squares to hang out. Starting from Place de la Bourse with the famous Mirroir d’eau, a huge area covered with water in which children and adults likewise love to play, you may check out streets like Rue Parlament Ste-Catherine, Parlament St. Pierre or Rue St. James with stunning facades and little shops to discover.

After having visited the CAPC Musée d’art contemporain, which has been home hundreds years ago to the offices of rich shipping company owners, my favourite street for a walk was definitely Rue Notre Dame in the Chartrons neighbourhood. It is not as touristic as the streets in the Old town, but beautifully restored. Make sure to stop at a shop called R.K.R showcasing wonderful design pieces from around the world in a tasteful ambiance – an old bakery converted into a shop full of surprises.

Another great walk takes you from the city via the Rue St. James with its little shops and cafés (Tamatebako Café!) to the Cours Victor Hugo where you turn left until you reach Rue des Faures. Here you enter into the universe of Northern Africa with Morrocan butchers and Tunisian supermarkets – it feels as if in another country. From there you cross the St. Michel square with its church and via Rue Canteloupe you reach the famous Marché des Capucins, also known as the “belly of Bordeaux”. The first weekly market here was held in 1749 and since then has been an institution in the city. Eat some fresh oysters, stroll the market stands, have a glass of wine and breeze the great market atmosphere. I had mussels and fries at Poulette – very friendly, authentic stuff and a superbe dish.

A wonderful experience was dinner in one of the bouchons in Bordeaux – the Bouchon Bordelais. Bouchons are a kind of small bistrots (more known in the city of Lyon), but with usually limited menus. Décor and style tend to be modest, some have paper tablecloths, and some don’t change the cutlery between courses—but the food and ambience are full of atmosphere. Bouchon Bordelais offers a fantastic choice of dishes such as “Fricassée d’escargots au lard” (Snail fricassee with bacon), “Filet de Turbot sauté avec crème de morilles” or their homemade, delicious Cheese Cake with lemon confit. The team is extremely friendly and help you find the most suitable wines for your choice of menu. Just make sure to have a reservation, otherwise you might not find a table.

A visit to Bordeaux is not complete without an excursion to the famous dunes of Arcachon. There are trains every hour from the Bordeaux station, the ride takes around 1 hour and from there you can jump on the bus Line 1 to reach the Dune du Pyla. With a height of 110m it is Europe’s largest dune and is constantly growing and moving as the wind takes more sand up the top. If you are very sportive you may climb the dune on the sand, but I preferred to take the more than 150 steps, which was already enough exercise for me. The views from up there are just breathtaking. On your way down feel free to avoid the steps and roll or run down the sand hill – great fun for the whole family.

If you are hungry and still have energy you may take a walk of around 40 minutes along the main street to reach the outstanding restaurant Le Rest(O! which is part of the hotel La Co(o)rniche. What a trendy place and stylish seafood lover’s paradise!

Philippe Starck, world famous icon of design, has refurbished the former hunting lodge from the thirties between pine trees right on the Atlantic coast. Hotel and restaurant feature the typical Starck furniture and offer an incredible terrace with a view one could get used to. Unfortunately we did not stay here, but already our lunch in the elegantly discrete brasserie gave us an experience to remember. Guests may enjoy a meal from the comfort of the cream sofas or sit at the large communal table with its friendly, welcoming feel.

Make certainly sure to book in advance as it can be quite packed and it would be too annoying to get there and not find a table.

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