Evalita’s must sees in Bella Puglia

When thinking about all the great moments we had in Southern Italy, I could write a novel about our trip to Puglia! I decided to concentrate here on a selection of places that I warmly recommend you to see when in this part of the world.

No visit to Puglia without passing through all the small villages in Itria Valley such as Locorotondo, Cisternino and of course famous Alberobello. The later is really very touristic, but the density of nicely renovated Trullis is just unbeatable and a quick stroll through the centre won’t hurt. Trullis can be found everywhere in this area and it feels as if you are in the land of hobbits. Characteristically, they feature pyramidal, domed or conical roofs built up of corbelled limestone slabs. They have been named Unesco world Heritage due to their outstanding universal value as exceptional examples of a form of building construction deriving from prehistoric construction techniques that have survived intact and functioning.

In the evening you should try out one of the very typical tiny restaurants in Cisternino. We went for the Arrosteria del Vicoletto, an informal and homely place in the narrow streets of the centre of the village. The very funny part about it is that you first go into the restaurant to check if there is a table available and what the table number would be. Then you walk to the well-stocked butcher counter on the corner of the street, choose your meat, pay and tell them your table number. It will then be served to you once grilled in the restaurant. Try also their appetizers of cold cuts and traditional cheese accompagnied by an excellent house wine. My favourite were the Bombette Pugliese, a kind of veal rolls that are stuffed with cheese and wrapped with bacon – a pure explosion of flavors and unique textures. We just loved it!

Another wonderful village is Ostuni, where we went several times to stroll up the hill on the cobbled streets and to have dinner or drinks in famous Riccardo Café. Next to the Café is the not less known restaurant Tempo Perso, where the food is divine and you may enjoy an evening in one of the Grotto style rooms. Just make sure you have a reservation as it is highly demanded.

Less on the beaten tracks of most of the tourists is the city of Martina Franca, a municipality with 50’000 inhabitants and around 25km away from Ostuni. What a beauty – especially by night! Leave your car somewhere around Piazza XX Settembre, pass Piazza Roma and the Palazzo Ducale and dive into the historic centre until you reach the Basilica di San Martino. Some steps away is the Trattoria Ai Portici, where we had a delicious dinner and tried their Orecchiette e Rape, the Trofiette con Zucchine e Gamberi and the Frittura Mista di Pesce. To finish off each dinner it has to be a Café Salentino with Latte di Mandorla (almond milk) and ice cubes. No wonder I was on a diet after that trip!

When staying at one of the stylish Masserias in Puglia (see my review of the Masseria Cervarolo), you may discover here and there that many of them are decorated with tableware, vases, lamp bases or candlesticks handcrafted by Italian artisans. Most of these ceramic and porcelain pieces are from the city of Grottaglie and we made our way there to discover the most impressive and stylish shop you could think about: Enza Fasano in Via Caravaggio. I wish I could have taken more than just a little piece that fitted in my suitcase! The transformation of clay into splendid ceramics is a result of a family run workshop that creates handmade objects full of elegance and vivacity you hardly can take your eyes off. The showroom itself is one of the most scenic in Italy, so don’t miss out! www.enzafasano.it

If you are near Santa Cesare Terme and you love outstanding architecture then pass by for a quick stop at Villa Sticchi. Built from 1894 – 1900 this building looks like taken right out of 1001 nights with its neoarabian style and its rich ornaments. It was bought in an auction by business man Oronzo Sticchi in 1904, who had the concession to use the sulphurous warm water springs and opened the first thermal bath. Since then the villa is in the hands of his family and unfortunately can’t be visited for a tour as they use it as their private house. Still the outside is worth to take a stop and to admire the beautiful Moorish architecture.

Another beautiful village to visit and a must see when in Puglia is Polignano a Mare. On the Adriatic Sea, perched like a bird’s nest on the edge of a sharp cliff over 20 meters high, Polignano rises above its crystal waters, which have been rewarded several times by the European Union with the prestigious Blue Flag. Polignano became famous through singer Domenico Modugno, who was born here and his popular song “Volare” (Nel blu dipinto di blu”), which you will definitely hear here and there when strolling the Old town or spending time in one of the small and stylish bars in the pittoresque streets.

When it comes to beaches the choice is immense as the heel of Italy is surrounded by extremely beautiful ones. We especially enjoyed those along the coast between Torre San Giovanni and Santa Maria die Leuca on the Ionian coast. Shallow waters, dunes and white sand are the reason for calling this area the Maldives of Salento. Our favourites were around Marina di Pescoluse where you may find beach clubs of all kind, offering sun loungers and umbrellas for a daily fee around 7 to 10 Euro. As they also have parking, changing rooms with showers and toilets as well as nice little bars I thought this was extremely convenient. If you look for party and action you may want to choose La Boteguita (www.boteguita.com ) or the Maldive del Salento beach (www.maldivedelsalento.com). For those who are travelling without children it is best to choose your stay outside the school holidays to avoid the huge masses – especially in August when all Italians are off as well.

More calm and very idyllic beaches can be found in the Parco Naturale Regionale Porto Selvaggio e Palude del Capitano north of Gallipoli. At about 1 km from Santa Caterina , towards Porto Cesareo , you will reach Villa Tafuro and from where you should enter the parc. Follow the path walking around twenty minutes in an incredible pine forest and you will reach the bay of Porto Selvaggio, which is small, no sand, but some pebbles and rocks. A beautiful place for a calm and lazy day! To your left you will see the High Tower while on the right you may follow some trails and discover the area.

2 Comments
  • Ilona Geimer

    October 3, 2016 at 2:17 pm Reply

    Liebe Eva-Maria,

    herzlichen Glückwunsch zu diesem tollen Blog!

    Beste Grüße aus Bayern
    Ilona

    • evalita

      October 12, 2016 at 2:27 pm Reply

      Thanks Ilona, happy you like it!

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