I know, I know! Opinions are divided when it comes to eating in Venice: While some people continue to praise the cucina veneziana as one of the world’s leading cuisines for its traditional and fine recipes, others consider it to have long since been corrupted by mass tourism. Of course, both of them are right in their own ways. On one side you have the creative or traditional chefs celebrating their freshly caught fish menus, on the other you might fall into the trap and get a loveless menù turistico. In any case the Venetian cuisine still offers many incomparable specialities, from the dozens of pasta variations to the original prepared frutti di mare and meat dishes to the sinfully sweet products of their pastry chefs. Where for sure you can’t go wrong is their offer in coffee and pastries – to die for!

A great place to start the day is certainly the Cafe Tonolo. Since around 100 years the small confectionery enjoys the reputation of being one of the best in Venice: a large display of all kind of pastries makes (sugar) hearts beat faster. The coffee is extremely tasty and you may have breakfast for two for an average of 5 EUR, dipping your Cornetto into your coffee while standing in this narrow and always packed place.  Try the velvety “bignè al zabaione”, which is a kind of marsala cream pastry, the sweet almond-crusted Focaccia di Venezia, the Pombolono or their delicious donuts with yammy fillings during Carneval. Cafe Tonolo, Calle San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3764, Venice.

Not less interesting is the incredible Pasticcheria Riccardini, an old-established tiny pastry shop with a bar, but no seats. Here you will find the best Venetian café of the brand del Doge and the most delicious cakes with Zabaione Creme and marvellous millefoglies made of puff pastry with vanilla cream. They are also known for their Cantuccinis, the traditional almond biscuits containing amaretto and various spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and star anise to be dipped into the Vin Santo. Although the pasticceria is located in one of the busiest lanes of the city, the Venetians still come here to drink a cappuccino while standing squeezed in the little space and indulge in the delicacies. Pasticcheria Riccardini, Campiello dei Meloni, 1415, Venice. 

On the edge of the Cannaregio, near the Rialto bridge, but hidden in a small street, you will find the lovely Osteria Il Milion. This cozy and enchanting place is named after a book by Marco Polo who used to live in a house near by.  The simple Osteria has been around for more than 300 years, with a colourful but friendly interior, matching waiters and a well-assorted, classic selection of typical Venetian dishes.  The menu has been unchanged for years, even if there are daily meals and some seasonal offers. We tried the Zuppa di Carciofi, a creamy artichoke soup with a thin parmesan crust as well as the Carpaccio di Pesce Spada, a fine sliced raw swordfish with fresh pepper and dark green olive oil. But as usual I ended up with my spaghettis, which I could eat 365 days a year, especially if they taste like in this very friendly restaurant. Osteria Il Milion, Corte del Milion – San Giovani Grisotomo, 5841 Cannaregio, Venice.

Giudecca is one of the 118 islands of the lagoon city and is not connected to Venice by a bridge, which means that you can only reach it by boat. This is in fact great, because not too many tourists will have the energy to make it. The best culinary destination on the island, owned by the Stradelli family for four generations, is the well hidden restaurant “Trattoria Altanella“, with a romantic terrace on a side canal. Classic Italian fish cuisine, wonderful gnocchi and seafood pasta have already inspired Robert de Niro or Francois Mitterrand. Be sure to try the Meringata semifredda or the wonderful Tiramisu. Since there are almost only regular guests here, mainly Venetians and the restaurant is not big, you have to make a reservation. It will really pay off! Trattoria Altanella, Calle delle Erbe 268, Giudecca, Venice.

Fish and small crawling animals from the lagoon are especially well prepared in the Antiche Carampane. Right next to the entrance fishermen or vegetable suppliers chat on a table of their own. The speciality of the restaurant is a small type of crab, the “Moleche”, tenderly fried and known as the best in town. Francesco and his mother Piera Bortoluzzi Librai, who are running the place since 1997, fry them without eggs, which produces the legendary consistency. Also the spaghetti with crab meat are sensationally good or the spicy pasta with small mussels and tomatoes. The short waiting time between ordering and service is usually bridged by a rolled paper bag filled with small deep-fried crabs. Trattoria Antiche Carampane, Rio Terà de le Carampane, 1911, Sestiere San Polo, Venice.

The oldest of the Venetian wine bars, the so-called Bacaris and a real institution since 500 years, is the Cantina Do Mori near the Rialto bridge. Old copper kettles hang from the ceiling, copper plates, old engravings, wine lists and newspaper clippings hang on the walls. The electrified halo of a Madonna shines from a wooden box. Locals and tourists alike stop here at noon or early evening for a chat, a drink or a break. With a glass of wine or prosecco you can enjoy the “Cicchetti” like sardines, pickled octopus and vegetables or the white bread with stockfish. Cantina do Mori, Sestiere San Polo, 429, 30125 Venice.

And if you had enough from all Trattorias, Cafes, Bicaris and Bars, just take a long stroll around the lagoon, watch the Gondoliere pushing their boats graciously around – I promise you will fall in love with this incredible town, which Yes is very touristic, but still puts a spell on every single visitor!